Quick Iron Preservation Question

I'm sure that this has been asked a thousand times on this forum but how is the best way to preserve a fairly rusted iron relic that is not rare or valuable?  Is olive oil okay to keep it from rusting any farther?  Is there any better method that will not put me in the poor house?  I am finding general, iron relics like horse shoes, ox shoes, loggers pikes, axe heads, etc. and I don't want them ending up in a crumbled pile of rust.  Thanks for everyone's input in advance.

Doug

The best way to clean these common iron items is by electrolysis.  NOT with wire brushes.  Then, coat them with some cheap water soluble hairspray or low-cost clear polyurethane from a spray can.  Be sure to wear a protective mask when spraying both of these;  especially the poly.

Electrolysis is right. I spray mine with wd-40, The wd-40 will turn the iron black. When dry I coat with lacquer. Very cheap and effective.

Isn't electrolysis a bit iffy on heavily rusted items?  Am I taking a chance of ruining the relic?  I am new on iron relic preservation and don't want to get it wrong.

Doug

Not at all. On heavily rusted iron, after electrolysis, I have uncovered intricate scroll work, manufacturers names and names of people that had  scribed their names on old logging tools. You won't go using electrolysis.

Iron corrodes badly and I like to use electrolysis and then let the item form its own natural brown rust patina which forms rather quickly.

The surface corrosion most call "patina" is nature's way of preserving metals.  The “patina” seals the item and to a degree - WORD REMOVED - Some people (parents of hadicapped children for example) find this word offensive.  Please don't use denigrating terms here at TreasureNet.  Thanks.s the more severe corrosive actions that can ultimately destroy a piece.

One reason we still are finding ancient iron spear points over 2,000 years old is because the thin layer of “patina” preserved them.

Personally I dislike a fake or new look to my old iron relics. Therefore I don’t paint or spray them. That natural brown “patina” makes those old broad axe heads and crosscut saw blades look great and old.

NOTE: If you do decide to seal your iron with spray or paint, make sure to heat the piece first so water boils on the surface (allow to cool) before sealing. This helps remove internal moisture that promotes corrosive action.

teddy

Thank you everyone for all of the tips and info.  I have a few pieces that are not worth anything to me (broken rr spikes and the like) and I will try my hand at "preserving" them and see how I do.  I appreciate all of the info.

Doug

Doug:

  Let's face it, these hunks of rust are usually valueless and very unattractive.
I have been restoring my old iron relics with dremel sanding to reveal the
original manufacturers marks.  Then I paint with Rustoleum liquid hammered
finish.  Be sure to thin the paint to barely cover and let dry.
  You will be amazed at the improvement.  I have some really old horse and
mule shoes.  Some were hand forged by blacksmiths and some were forged
with the forge logos visible.  I frankly didn't know these marks were there
because of the rust.  A lot of details are there but not visible unless you get
rid of the rust.  Maybe electrolysis works better but I have time now to do it
with tools I am familiar with.
  I recently dug a an iron stove lid that was dated 1836 near an old blacksmith
shop and dwelling.  The corrosion came off easily with a light sanding and
buffing with wire brush connected to drill.  The light coat of Rustoleum made
it a work of art.  At least to me. 
  My old mining area relics are now preserved against further deterioration and
if I don't like the resulting color when done I can redo later without having to
start from scratch.  Some steel relics I intend to coat with varnish to keep the
original look.
 
  Good luck with you project
  lastleg

NOTE: If you do decide to seal your iron with spray or paint, make sure to heat the piece first so water boils on the surface (allow to cool) before sealing. This helps remove internal moisture that promotes corrosive action.

teddy

   ....and if it's a cannonball or shell, make sure it's not the type that has a fuse! (powder inside)

Correction,....heat if it's not a cannonball, missile, blasting cap, etc.    

teddy