Test your skills on this one! Spent years trying to ID this.

I think Peerless67 is on the right track !

http://www.google.com/patents?id=_S...mp;as_maxm_is=1&as_maxy_is=2008

Peerless67...Your Picture is great!

I'm pulling for you Bud!


Tony

Would that not make the body of the camera greater than 3 inches across? Also why would the teeth need reinforcing for the light lateral load applied by the film? Does enough of the tooth protrude to permit this solution? Would the wheel need a seperate bracket with clips if installed in a camera body?

I am as mystified as anyone. I can say that what you see (and it may not be the complete item) cannot interact. There's no mechanical or electrical linkage or connection which rules out thermostats. The earlier post about stopping a production after a certain number is flawed due to the manual reset back the way it came. So the wheel is moved either manually or by a small drive sprocket to the teeth. Never seen anything like it in the UK though it is vaguely familiar

Would that not make the body of the camera greater than 3 inches across? Also why would the teeth need reinforcing for the light lateral load applied by the film? Does enough of the tooth protrude to permit this solution? Would the wheel need a seperate bracket with clips if installed in a camera body?

I am as mystified as anyone. I can say that what you see (and it may not be the complete item) cannot interact. There's no mechanical or electrical linkage or connection which rules out thermostats. The earlier post about stopping a production after a certain number is flawed due to the manual reset back the way it came. So the wheel is moved either manually or by a small drive sprocket to the teeth. Never seen anything like it in the UK though it is vaguely familiar

The box brownie type cameras were sometimes much greater than 3 inches across (late 1800s - early 1900s)
Are the teeth reinforced? or are they shaped to make being guided into the small slots in the film roll easier?
The teeth do protrude.
The manufacture date would dictate why they were made that way.

Peerless67
would this site help you track down the camera you remember?
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/kodak.htm

seems to have manuals for cameras dating way back. Maybe with a model we can look for parts??

Peerless67
would this site help you track down the camera you remember?
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/kodak.htm

seems to have manuals for cameras dating way back. Maybe with a model we can look for parts??

eldonsmith, when I was a kid my dad worked  for the local council as a transport manager, his main job was looking after the councils dust carts (garbage trucks) his job entailed working at local tips/ landfills. That is where he came across the camera. ( he was like a magpie) I was a kid when I took it apart. I tried to remember the exact model before posting and spent some time looking on the net, but was unable to find it.
I do recall the body was aluminium covered with leather, and it had a bellows like leather body behind the lens.
The leather was faded red and textured. other than that I remember little, although I will take a look see if I can find it or something similar. I am in the UK to, so it could have been just about any manufacturer.

I wish someone had some old 120 film that could post the distance between notches and musclecar could see if it fits.

I believe you Peerless but I have heard other members say they were 100 percent sure before.  We really do need a pic or link.  Great diagram. BTW. 

It certainly looks like it.  Look at the drawing.
http://www.google.com/patents?id=_S9hAAAAEBAJ&dq=camera

Capillary Thermostat.

The two “hooks” on the backside is where the capillary tube was secured, and then ran to the bulb inside of the refrigeration unit (refrigerator, wine cooler, walk-in cooler, etc)

[ ERROR: SPECIFIED ATTACHMENT MISSING ]

why did you have to ruin it all? 

SWR, I see no way where this could attach to an electric themostat .   Do you?

why did you have to ruin it all? 

Somebody mentioned money ($50). I did it for the money.   

Piggy is offering $50 to solve the piggnuts.

The guy that guessed Gonjji stones is upset and still waiting for his money.

SWR, I see no way where this could attach to an electric themostat .   Do you?

Sure. I see empty holes and a broken tab. Capillary Thermostats are not basically electric, but do control contacts that control electrical components  

I know. I am HVAC /ref. tech.   But the underside of the dial must connect to the electronics, and I see no shaft nor anyway to connect to a shaft.



You have a huge screen.

SWR, I see no way where this could attach to an electric themostat .   Do you?

Sure. I see empty holes and a broken tab. Capillary Thermostats are not basically electric, but do control contacts that control electrical components  

I know. I am HVAC /ref. tech.   But the underside of the dial must connect to the electronics, and I see no shaft nor anyway to connect to a shaft.



You have a huge screen.

The item in question is a broken-off piece of _______  (fill in blank). Of course you are not going to see everything. The underside of the dial (in theory) would press up against a flexable piece of metal....that would in turn control the relay. The dial does not control the electronics, but the "flex" in the metal that presses up against the contact/relay.

It has to connect. I have never seen a control without a shaft to turn. The numbered dial must make some kind of good connection to the electric contol/relay shaft. It cannot just be just pressed up against it smooth without something interlocking.
Only musclecar can tell us if its broken. It doesnt look broken at the "shaft" end.  Go back and look at the pics-- it looks like its just a rivet.


   Good thought on the capillary attachment, but I say camera film counter.

The expanding/contracting capillary reservoir is what controls the contacts/relays...not the dial. The dial only controls the positioning of the reservoir (closer or farther to the contact/relay. I know that I mention refrigeration...but, capillary thermostats are also used in heating (cooking, water heaters, steamers, etc) as well.

In this case BOTH. The dial controls the adjustment (colder or warmer) just like the potentiometer on a metal detector.  Sure you can have an expanding/contracting gas filled capillary to control the relay without a dial control, it would be either on or off.  But in this case we have a numbered dial (like all refridges) for a better range of adjustment.  (30 years in the business)  A gas filled cappillary turns the relay on/off at a factory set temperature/pressure.  The dial gives the refridgerator owner a choice of temperature settings. I dont know how else to explain it. We have a 1-15 numbered dial and for this theory to sound it must connect.

BTW glad to hear from you SWR. I wish we could have another Sebastian cookout.

Typically, a capilliary thermostat has a fine tube closed at one end - the business end. This is placed against the surface which could be a boiler or a refridgeration plate. The other end is coincident with the control and by varying the internal pressure causes a switch to turn off/on the power to the heating/cooling
I've never seen one where the control is a) on the same surface as the the sensor (ouch) or b) that has no connection to the other end of the capilliary.

The film sprocket thing sounds good, but in the later image posted, you can see that it is a simple flat wheel directly screwed to the body rather than pop riveted to a crude mounting plate. The quality just seems wrong to me.

Typically, a capilliary thermostat has a fine tube closed at one end - the business end. This is placed against the surface which could be a boiler or a refridgeration plate. The other end is coincident with the control and by varying the internal pressure causes a switch to turn off/on the power to the heating/cooling
I've never seen one where the control is a) on the same surface as the the sensor (ouch) or b) that has no connection to the other end of the capilliary.

The film sprocket thing sounds good, but in the later image posted, you can see that it is a simple flat wheel directly screwed to the body rather than pop riveted to a crude mounting plate. The quality just seems wrong to me.

The last picture posted of the camera is not exactly the same, but the same idea.  The sprockets fit the holes in the film to initually hand wind and rewind. This also is an older version.

The expanding/contracting capillary reservoir is what controls the contacts/relays...not the dial. The dial only controls the positioning of the reservoir (closer or farther to the contact/relay. I know that I mention refrigeration...but, capillary thermostats are also used in heating (cooking, water heaters, steamers, etc) as well.

In this case BOTH. The dial controls the adjustment (colder or warmer) just like the potentiometer on a metal detector.  Sure you can have an expanding/contracting gas filled capillary to control the relay without a dial control, it would be either on or off.  But in this case we have a numbered dial (like all refridges) for a better range of adjustment.  (30 years in the business)  A gas filled cappillary turns the relay on/off at a factory set temperature/pressure.  The dial gives the refridgerator owner a choice of temperature settings. I dont know how else to explain it.

BTW glad to hear from you SWR. I wish we could have another Sebastian cookout.

Yeah...nice meeting you @ Sebastian

Not all capillary thermostats are factory preset. The dial controls the "trip" mechanism of the "flex" metal strip or reservoir. With the capability of 15 (or 14) it would be more applicable for heating than refrigeration (water heater, steamer, commercial dishwater) and not readily accessible.

I dont see how this dial could connect to a flex metal strip and I dont follow you on the reservoir.

Chaps
The thing that's bugging me is the "dial controlling.." part. I cannot see how, unless the stop at 15 somehow interacted with something??

Chaps
The thing that's bugging me is the "dial controlling.." part. I cannot see how, unless the stop at 15 somehow interacted with something??

I cant see how it could interact either.

 On the camera theory, the legs of the gear insert into the slots of the film to advance and rewind.

Sorry I wasn't clear on that. I understand the film thing - just been trying to find some details on 120 film perf pitch.

My question about control was in connection with the thermostat suggestion. Wonder if that stop was longer?

Back to the film thing. I have no camera experience, but everything I've seen seems to be well made even on budget cameras. Does anyone else think that the quality of this isn't up to what you'd expect in a camera? It appears overly complex (frame, rivet, many mounting holes but no threads, clips, pointers) but too low in quality. The line drawing of the camera is the way I'd do it - a wheel and a screw into the case.

BTW ISO 732 covers 120 film dimensions and theres some info on perfs at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Film_perforations

My question about control was in connection with the thermostat suggestion. Wonder if that stop was longer?

I follow you now. The quality looks fine to me (better than todays plastics) The stop was made at the factory by bending up the piece so I doubt it was longer. I dont think that could connect to a capillary type control. It makes more sense to connect at the shaft. It may possibly connect to an adjustible cold air vent in theory but its kinda short.

I wish someone had some old 120 film that could post the distance between notches and musclecar could see if it fits.

I believe you Peerless but I have heard other members say they were 100 percent sure before.  We really do need a pic or link.  Great diagram. BTW. 

BSH, I get your thinking but the distance between the holes is much greater than the distance between the teeth.
The holes on the film which was 72 inches in length and only took 11-13 pictures were spaced, to indicate that you had moved to a blank piece of film.
If the holes were spaced at the same distance as the teeth you would only have a piece of film a few inches in length.
So as the film passed over the teeth, the teeth would pick up the hole and advance the number in the peep hole/window. So the owner could now test this even with a modern film, or even piece of card with holes in it.
The film was also made of some unstable material and was paper backed for some reason, when they changed the material used to make film they were able to remove the need for the paper backing, and so cameras were able to hold rolls that could take greater numbers of pictures, because they could now fit 2 times as much film in the same space.
The picture that someone kindly posted is in a newer type camera but almost perfectly shows how the one I took apart worked. Although I would guess mine predated the 1950s considerably.

I wish someone had some old 120 film that could post the distance between notches and musclecar could see if it fits.

I believe you Peerless but I have heard other members say they were 100 percent sure before.  We really do need a pic or link.  Great diagram. BTW. 

BSH, I get your thinking but the distance between the holes is much greater than the distance between the teeth.
The holes on the film which was 72 inches in length and only took 11-13 pictures were spaced, to indicate that you had moved to a blank piece of film.
If the holes were spaced at the same distance as the teeth you would only have a piece of film a few inches in length.
So as the film passed over the teeth, the teeth would pick up the hole and advance the number in the peep hole/window. So the owner could now test this even with a modern film, or even piece of card with holes in it.
The film was also made of some unstable material and was paper backed for some reason, when they changed the material used to make film they were able to remove the need for the paper backing, and so cameras were able to hold rolls that could take greater numbers of pictures, because they could now fit 2 times as much film in the same space.
The picture that someone kindly posted is in a newer type camera but almost perfectly shows how the one I took apart worked. Although I would guess mine predated the 1950s considerably.

That is what I meant lol. To make a pattern of the film and physically try it.   I dont know if it would prove anything but Im with you.

Maybe 35mm is the same hole spacing?

Nothing short of an exact pic, Im afraid, will mark this one solved.

35 mm film would have smaller/shorter spacing, that is still not important, the main interest is in the teeth advancing the number. You could have a piece of film a mile long, but if it only had 14 holes in it, it would only advance 14 times.

35 mm film would have smaller/shorter spacing, that is still not important, the main interest is in the teeth advancing the number. You could have a piece of film a mile long, but if it only had 14 holes in it, it would only advance 14 times.

OK I follow you. But would it fit?  If it doesnt fit, we must acquit.

The question that I proposed was will 120 film fit the sprockets properly?

perhaps a round counter for the old 15 round pro fights

A friend of mine - keen photographer - sent me this in response to my question regarding the perforations on camera film.

"Well, I can Definitely tell you it's not 120 (or 220)roll film 'cos it definitely doesn't have perforations, I've got some here to look at. Also, the number of frames on a 120 roll depends on the format the camera is using e.g. 6cm x 6cm has 12 frames per roll"

Of course that doesn't mean it isn't a film frame counter, just narrows the possibilities down when looking for a possible candidate.

what bugs me most is I have seen one of these before but can't place it. I am a photographer and 120 film (or 220) does not have sprocket holes. There were lots of 120/220 formats. 6x6 being the most common (12 exposures per roll) but also 6x7, 6x8, 6x12 (panorama) Now the most common is 6x6 meaning 12 exposures but again almost all 120 cameras also took 220 film, meaning 24 exposures. so 15 won't cut it. 6x8 or larger may have only  made 15 exposures on 220 film so it is possible but I don't believe any camera counter looked like that. ( yes I have taken apart lots of cameras) at the same time since I have seen one of these before I guess it is possible.

Count me as one of the haunted

Ok some older cameras only used 120 film, however all older cameras I know of ( I just checked 4 different ones I had here) had a red window and the frame # was on the paper backing of the film and showed through the red window. ( This was before color film) newer cameras would have been 120/220 and needed a 24 frame counter.

I found this in Alaska about 10 years ago, and have never been able to ID it.  It is an aluminum piece, about 3 inches square.  It has 15 teeth and is numbered 1-15.  There is a stop preventing it from spinning freely.  The back has two tabs that may have been used to mount it.   ANY GUESSES?

Thanks,

MC

PS The quarter used for size was found yesterday!  1935S  Yeah!

I've dont really have the time to read through all postings on this, but i really want to know to know: 1. What sort of place you found it in. 2.Type of terrain.3.  Eventual logging in the area. 4. Distance to nearest river able to float cut timber or sawn boards in bunches of 15 downriver.(at least in the spring, when there is enough water to float it) Logging is typically done in winter when the ground is hard enough to bear transport sleds or wagons(horsedrawn). some snow actually makes this easier for the horses, then transported either directly down to the river's edge or put on the ice for the spring flooding to carry it downriver.5. Sawmills in the area or downriver to the sea and maybe up to 10 or 15 miles at least up or down the coastline.
 I think it is some kind of simple counter for getting the loads into uniform bunches to make it easier to count and pay the logging operations for the timber delivered. But we never used something like that here in Sweden. We had especially employed people to measure up the timber and classifying it (marking it up) before sending it down to the sawmills or paper mills. Some of it was even cut in special dimensions for use as telephone or power-line poles etc. Wood-coal was measured and paid for at at the destination. As was tar.
Other than that I really can't imagine any use for it at all... Cattle  or sheep in Alaska? Some milkers, pigs, sheep or goats for the locals but nothing more (too hard to keep them fed in the winter, i think).

I think the moderators should give lifetime (of the person or website) charter membership to the person who eventually becomes responsible for getting rid of this thread!  This item is a horrible device of satan that continues to make us all crazy.  It seems SWR and Peerless are both onto things that sound plausible to me.  Please!!! One of you get the proof and kill this thing!

I think the moderators should give lifetime (of the person or website) charter membership to the person who eventually becomes responsible for getting rid of this thread!  This item is a horrible device of satan that continues to make us all crazy.  It seems SWR and Peerless are both onto things that sound plausible to me.  Please!!! One of you get the proof and kill this thing!

Someone marked it solved. 

As a refrigeration technician, I see no way for this dial to attach to the shaft of a cold control relay and I have yet to hear this explained.  The dial cannot attach to the shaft by simply pressing up against it.  Just like your dial on your MD. It must be attached securely to the shaft of the electronic control to adjust/turn it.

Forget about the fridge theory, unless the shaft has broken off. (see arrow) It doesnt look broken. It looks like a rivet.  This is some kind of counter.

As a refrigeration technician, you have to agree that the numbering (1-15) is typical for incremental adjustments of temperature. 1F to 15F adjustment.

I am miffed as to why you cannot see there are missing parts to this item. The bent tab above the capillary tube hooks have a jagged edge, suggestion something was broken off, the two holes right below the hooks appear to be wallowed out and what you are calling the rivet that holds the wheel appears to have been rubbing on something, to make it shine like that.

I honestly doubt an exact duplicate will ever be produced, but if you compare it with a modern capillary thermostat, the elements are the same.

No sorry.  I realize this is only a dial and much is missing (in theory). There may be something broken between the tabs as well.  The element that is missing of importance here is the shaft. ...unless it has broken off. I cant tell by the pic.

Domestic refrigerator cold controls are not usually in degrees of temperature. A commercial type maybe but it would still need to connect at the shaft. Compare to your MD. How can a control knob attach and turn without a shaft? It cannot just rub on the electronic control. It must turn something inside the electronics. I am a little miffed as well my friend. Maybe you do not understand the inside workings of a cold control. Do you think the shaft has broken off and appears as a rivet?

Something I noticed that may be a tiny clue, I dunno. The two raised ribs would allow this counter to lay flat so the dial can freely turn.

Hey SWR,

I think Cypress is the closest.

BTW does SWR represent your initials, Standing Wave Ratio?

TimC

We need to talk to Musclecar. He was last active on August 19th. If the rivet/shaft is broken off, then I change my mind. 

Guys, I wasn't the first one to recognize it, but I'll say it again:

It's the temperature adjustment dial from an old refrigerator.  I couldn't find a pic or old manual on the internet to prove it so someone will have to show it to an older refrigerator repairman or email it to one of those websites that sells antique appliances.  I was fascinated by it and played with it many times when I was a kid and recognized it instantly even though the cover is missing and it is out of context. I helped defrost the refrigerator.  There is no question about what it is, the only thing lacking is proof.

The only thing I can say to try to convince anyone without visual proof is that it obviously is too light to perform a mechanical task such as a gear would, and the attachments are not sturdy enough.  In fact, it obviously is not designed for any kind of frequent or heavy usage, especially considering its age and how much better things were made then. 

A counter makes no sense because it is manually operated like a telephone dial, click counters have been around longer than this piece and why would you need a counter to go to only fifteen?  Telephone ringer volume adjustment wheels are much smaller (though I think that is the best guess out of the ones I have seen here), camera parts are smaller and much more heavy duty, and to count days (such as for gestation) you use a calendar, not a dial, unless there are multiple dials to mark the date, like in a date ink stamper.  You can see by the font style of the numbers that it was originally designed from say 1910 to 1960, probably the 1920s to maybe 1940s.  Finally, the aluminum is the same weight and finish of other parts of refrigerators from the period.

Guys, I wasn't the first one to recognize it, but I'll say it again:

It's the temperature adjustment dial from an old refrigerator.  I couldn't find a pic or old manual on the internet to prove it so someone will have to show it to an older refrigerator repairman or email it to one of those websites that sells antique appliances.  I was fascinated by it and played with it many times when I was a kid and recognized it instantly even though the cover is missing and it is out of context. I helped defrost the refrigerator.  There is no question about what it is, the only thing lacking is proof.

The only thing I can say to try to convince anyone without visual proof is that it obviously is too light to perform a mechanical task such as a gear would, and the attachments are not sturdy enough.  In fact, it obviously is not designed for any kind of frequent or heavy usage, especially considering its age and how much better things were made then. 

A counter makes no sense because it is manually operated like a telephone dial, click counters have been around longer than this piece and why would you need a counter to go to only fifteen?  Telephone ringer volume adjustment wheels are much smaller (though I think that is the best guess out of the ones I have seen here), camera parts are smaller and much more heavy duty, and to count days (such as for gestation) you use a calendar, not a dial, unless there are multiple dials to mark the date, like in a date ink stamper.  You can see by the font style of the numbers that it was originally designed from say 1910 to 1960, probably the 1920s to maybe 1940s.  Finally, the aluminum is the same weight and finish of other parts of refrigerators from the period.

I hate to keep asking, but how does the dial attach to the shaft of the cold control?  Is it broken?   CAN YOU PLEASE EXPLAIN?    Did it have a capillary tube? Why would you need a numbered dial to manually defrost an old refridgerator?  I remember unplugging and chipping ice, thats all you could do.  Didnt cold controls usually go 1-10 anyway?  I dont remember ever seeing one go to 15.  And the highest (coldest?) number is partially obscured or out of line with the others.

Welcome to TN Burger. You are not the first person to say they recognize it and played with it as a kid. The camera guy said the same. I wish I had a buck for every person that said they were 100 percent sure of an ID.

Cameras were much larger back in the day, plastics werent stable or used much yet and film counters went to 15.  (You could get 13, 14 or so out of a 12 exposure film).  The number 15 being smaller makes me think it didnt go there much. Its certainly strong enough for a camera film counter.

I hate to keep asking, but how does the dial attach to the shaft of the cold control?  Is it broken? CAN YOU PLEASE EXPLAIN?

Sure. I'll try to find a schematic from Johnson Controls, too.

You seem to be hung up on the shaft. The dial spins a offset cam (that would be the broken piece underneath) that draws the flex metal or capillary reservoir closer or farther from the contacts.

Of course I am hung up on it. Without a shaft or connection to the electronics, it cannot work.

An offset cam perhaps, but I dont see that either, unless it is broken on the bottom. Only musclecar can answer that. It certainly doesnt look broken.

BTW I didnt work on commercial ref. much but I looked it up and the temp differential is usually more than 15 degrees on cold controls and not numbered that way. Its usually wider than a 15 degree range. If numbered in actual temps, it would be above number 32 degrees for cold or a freezer range would go under 0 degrees. 1-15 doesnt fit a cold control. If my memory is correct, fridge cold controls are numbered 1-10, maybe 1-5 or in ABC letters. 1-15 is odd. Frigidaire and General Motors were popular. Check your fridge at home.

Another thought- The cap tube is not usually attached to the back side. In this case (in theory) it would be attached inside an antiquated large cold control?

I'm with bigcypresshunter on this, and to everyone who has offered suggestions, please don't think you are being dismissed out of hand. My cynicism is based on experience and a lack of proof as to this effers usage

Looking at what we see (and I realise it may not be all of it) I cannot see where anything would interact. No shaft - on the back is a simple set hollow rivet. I don't see where anything has worn or impinged on it to drive or be driven. You may say that a thermostat wouldn't be used enough to show signs of wear, but look at the base plate above and below the pointer. It has been turned frequently (ok could have been done since dug)

I'm having a tough time with camera film now, if the film perforations were the equal to the width of the teeth, then surely the film would be equal to the circumference (~9" assuming about 3" across).

Say the frame size was 6x6 for example, then for this to count 14 frames (it doesn't go to 15) there would need to be abt least 130" of film with a perf hole every 6". I'm no photographer but is that typical?? All film I've seen seems to have continuous perforations along the edge. We already know that the medium format film doesn't have perfs, so would we be looking at a later film which is smaller format and consequently fits in a smaller camera? I dunno - photography is a weak area for me

As stated, I have no beefs, just want to see proof of what it is. Also I'm not bored yet as I'm a new member!

Hi,

This should be a part of a antique slot machine. The dime would go in the slot, and then you crank the handle. The 1 - 15 numbers represent something on it, like when the next win will be or something. Here is a picture, look at the top.

http://i1.iofferphoto.com/img/1150959600/_i/12553198/1.jpg

are the gaps between the points all the same measurements? or do they progressively get larger or smaller with the numbers?

One day, someone will show us all a pic of an ovulating ocelot, or something similar, in a cage with the thing attached to it's refrigerator, while it takes photos and strews seeds amongst all the followers of this thread.
Mike

Quote INGROLLER : " I am a photographer and 120 film (or 220) does not have sprocket holes. "

Hmm that's from Wikipedia and it does seem to show perfs on one edge of modern 120 film. I've recently looked at quite a bit of of 120/220 film which doesn't have perfs. Also look at the caption under the image on this page http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium_format_(film)

That being said, the image posted above showing 120 with perfs. Have a think about that and the mystery device and how they'd interact.

Still trying to solve this

Sorry the above link didn't incorporate the trailing )

Is there such a thing as a 15 Minute Egg ?

Being a cook/chef for 30+yrs.i never heard of egg being used in a recipe(for 15-min.) as a 3min.egg (alone) would be,like soft boil+,a boiled egg for 15min.would be like rubber,but i got a set of historic/anceint recipe books i'll take a look!thanks for listening...

Is there such a thing as a 15 Minute Egg ?

Being a cook/chef for 30+yrs.i never heard of egg being used in a recipe(for 15-min.) as a 3min.egg (alone) would be,like soft boil+,a boiled egg for 15min.would be like rubber,but i got a set of historic/anceint recipe books i'll take a look!thanks for listening...

I guess you never hard boiled an ostrich egg   

Is there such a thing as a 15 Minute Egg ?

Being a cook/chef for 30+yrs.i never heard of egg being used in a recipe(for 15-min.) as a 3min.egg (alone) would be,like soft boil+,a boiled egg for 15min.would be like rubber,but i got a set of historic/anceint recipe books i'll take a look!thanks for listening...

Matter of fact i HAVE...Actually steamed,boiling would have turned it rubbery...

I guess you never hard boiled an ostrich egg   

I would just throw this piece of aluminum in my junk box.  It definately does not have enough value in it for me to stress over as I see everyone on here doing.  If it were an ancient coin that only one has been found, different story.  Just throw the thing away, end the thread, and let all these folks continue on with their normal lives.  Just my two cents, thx for letting me rant.    HH!

I would just throw this piece of aluminum in my junk box.  It definately does not have enough value in it for me to stress over as I see everyone on here doing.  If it were an ancient coin that only one has been found, different story.  Just throw the thing away, end the thread, and let all these folks continue on with their normal lives.  Just my two cents, thx for letting me rant.   HH!

LOL  You had to bump it back up again. Some of us refuse to give up. It has nothing to do with value. This is an IDable item.

ah its the thrill of the id hunt not the actual value of the "animal" being hunted -- but this "animal" is rather valuible for a 100% provible id -- it is my understanding that some  folks driven half mad by this item have offered nice prizes which are attached to  IDing it ---- for anyone who can produce a 100% iron clad ID of said beast.--so IDing it is indeed worthwhile  $$$ wize--and you would get "instant fame" as added bonus -- Ivan

ps I see the solved green checkmark --who did they "offically" say slayed the beast?
and if its really 100% dead --- onward to kill its evil brother --- the pigg nuts!!!

You could be a TN hero.   

$50 bucks is being offered by Piggy to the one who produces a match to these worthless widgets: http://forum.treasurenet.com/index.php/topic,91892.0.html

Jeff please remove the green arrow      ... it wont work.  You cant stop this thread. It has a life of its own.

yep keep the pigg nuts far away from the counter thingy (they might cross breed)-- hey maybe its a pigg nut counter ? when 15 pigg nuts are found the world ends  Ivan

yep keep the pigg nuts far away from the counter thingy (they might cross breed)-- hey maybe its a pigg nut counter ? when 15 pigg nuts are found the world ends  Ivan

Hmmm. ... there are 15 gonji stones to a set.

I think possible solve found to pigg man nuts !! no BS for real -- seems they might be a form of rubic cube type game but with differant ball themed sides -- world cup --basket ball ect you worked it to aline them --they didn';t catch on however --the nuts are from a busted game -- they are --- three d logic puzzle pieces.

at patent doc -- maxime paquete -"three demisional logic puzzle" sort of a rubic cube but using a ball (basket ball ,soccer ect ) theme with the nuts fitting into a frame work and being slid about to form the faces of the ball (think soccer ball)-- the nuts are the game parts --the frame got busted --the nuts got loose -- seems unlike the rubic cube this "knock off" never caught on big time .

I think possible solve found to pigg man nuts !! no BS for real -- seems they might be a form of rubic cube type game but with differant ball themed sides -- world cup --basket ball ect you worked it to aline them --they didn';t catch on however --the nuts are from a busted game -- they are --- three d logic puzzle pieces.

at patent doc -- maxine paquete -"three demisional logic puzzle" sort of a rubic cube but using a ball (basket ball ,soccer ect ) theme with the nuts fitting into a frame work and being slid about to form the faces of the ball (think soccer ball)-- the nuts are the game parts --the frame got busted --the nuts got loose -- seems unlike the rubic cube this "knock off" never caught on big time .

link please Ivan.

http://www.faqs.org/patents/app/20080230988 --inventor maxime paquette --a buckyball type shape version of a rubics cube --with the nuts being silders within a twisting frame work  to form the faces -- like colors did on a rubic cube -- seems to have not caught on unlike the "cube" a sort of "knock off" of a rubic cube --the frame work was busted and the nuts got loose --

I was thinking a temperature adjuster or something for an old refridgerator or ice box. Remember how they use to be pretty much aluminum on the inside?

yep keep the pigg nuts far away from the counter thingy (they might cross breed)-- hey maybe its a pigg nut counter ? when 15 pigg nuts are found the world ends  Ivan

No they won't cross breed.  They are like matter and antimatter and the end of the universe will come if you put them together.

The photo of the 120 film does not show sprocket holes on one end. It shows black squares on the paper backing of the film. I trashed a roll of 120 film to show you.
Here's a roll of Ilford 120 film

Here's the paper side with the numbers I said would show through the red window in the older cameras. different #'s spaced differently for different format 120 cameras.

Here's the film side, notice no sprocket holes. ( magnetic money clip used because film curl wouldn't allow it to lay flat. Notice money clip is empty. Donations accepted) : )

Maybe it goes to a Panoramic Camera

http://www.google.com/patents?id=wv5TAAAAEBAJ&dq=panoramic+camera

Maybe we can get the green check replaced with a white flag.

We're six pages into this and we are even still mixing in those %#@^!@ Pigg Nutz.

Daryl

This camera is from 1915. No counter. I will check some of my others.
I also thought this was a camera part from one of my post about a year or two ago.

Ok, it is time to make a decision.  I am the owner of this vile object.  First of all, I appologize for not logging on to Treasurenet for some time, and answering any questions.   My hunting partner (Dad) had a stroke last December, and I have not been into much of anything since then.  1 year of no detecting. 
I am considering putting this thing on Ebay, and linking Treasurenet and Boingboing giving both sites publicity.  I would like to see what happens, and get rid of this "thing".
Give me feedback please.  Thank you all, you are a great group of people.
Derryl.

Ok, it is time to make a decision.  I am the owner of this vile object.  First of all, I appologize for not logging on to Treasurenet for some time, and answering any questions.   My hunting partner (Dad) had a stroke last December, and I have not been into much of anything since then.  1 year of no detecting. 
I am considering putting this thing on Ebay, and linking Treasurenet and Boingboing giving both sites publicity.
Would that be ok with all?  I am not in it for the money, just would like to see what happens, and get rid of this "thing".
Give me feedback please.  Thank you all, you are a great group of people.
Derryl.

It's yours.
Newt

Maybe this has been said before but could it be the thingy that counts the balls in a coin pool table (billiard).

I do like the camera theory but then that means that the camera it self was limited to 15 pics? See I'm not as old as some of you guys and all I remember from film cameras is that the roll determined the amount of pics 24 or 36

All the best,

Chagy........
 

chagy 12 pics ---  with a overrun of a bit

Muscle,
Don't auction the item off!  Auction off the thread! 

its mounted next to a rain gauge and used to keep up with seasonal rainfall totals.

Maybe this has been said before but could it be the thingy that counts the balls in a coin pool table (billiard).

I do like the camera theory but then that means that the camera it self was limited to 15 pics? See I'm not as old as some of you guys and all I remember from film cameras is that the roll determined the amount of pics 24 or 36

All the best,

Chagy........
 

I remember 12 but you often got 14 or 15.   I still buy 12 exposure film today for my game cameras.

yep I too said 12 count film counter -- you often got 2 - 3  extras  out of a roll

Make it more interesting, ship it to a Tnet member, they take a pic with the "thing" and ship
it (and the pic) to another Tnet member who takes a pic and sends it to yet another member
and so on, once you get it back post it and the pics on ebay.

Start with Ivan, it would look great hanging off that chain.     

uh it might get lost in the mail.    PS and what bad thing did I do to you blacksheep that you would wish such evil upon me? on the other hand folks would pay good money to see it destoryed slowly bit by bit  most likely -- sell it off snip by snip by the tin shears ---hummm could get a new detector outta the deal --

Apologies, it was a lame attempt to put a positive spin on the object of much disdain, the
evil of this object knows no bounds! 

it`s a counter for a rain guage

I finally figured it out!  It's been right under our noses and we never saw it!  It's a depth gauge for a digging tool, you attach it to your digger, and as you plunge your digger into the ground the resistance of the soil moves the little fingers till you get down to your target.  Maximum depth is 15 inches.  Aluminum is non rusting, and this thing has apparently outlived its intended useful life.  Kinda takes the guessing out of what your machine's depth gauge is telling you........NGE

I have listed this item up for auction on Ebay.  Thank you ALL for your input and suggestions.  I still feel this item has not been identified, but maybe with Ebays' exposure, it will be finalized.  Here is the link, I hope it is not in violation of Treasurenet policy to provide the link here.  Thanks again everyone!  Marc, Jeff, PBK, OK?

Derryl.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...TRK:MESELX:IT&item=320324884019

I have listed this item up for auction on Ebay.  Thank you ALL for your input and suggestions.  I still feel this item has not been identified, but maybe with Ebays' exposure, it will be finalized.  Here is the link, I hope it is not in violation of Treasurenet policy to provide the link here.  Thanks again everyone!
Derryl.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...TRK:MESELX:IT&item=320324884019

LOL free shipping to boot.  Maybe someone will buy it and bury it. Starting bid US $0.99.

I'm thinking about buying it and beating the %$#^%$ out of it.

Daryl

Great Idea, maybe someone from another country will buy it and drive them nuts, I would not be surprised to see this thang on Ebay in the near future again.......NGE

I was thinking a temperature adjuster or something for an old refridgerator or ice box. Remember how they use to be pretty much aluminum on the inside?

I and my wife have thought the same thing all along but I have tried in vain to find a schematic/blueprint/pic or anything else that would prove it. DANG IT!!!

DANGLANGLEY

Here is a pic of a counter that looks kinda similar....
Tom

Here is a pic of a counter that looks kinda similar....
Tom

Now this changes everything!   
Because the other gear is plastic (softer than metal), the metal gear would not show wear.
But still, the one we are trying to ID has a stop. How would it reset?
This one does not. But MORE food for thought about this thing!

How about a tractor governer?..... only 15mph max.........NGE

it`s a counter for a rain guage

This makes as much sense as any explanation I have seen posted here.

Any evidence to verify this David?

Oh crap, is thread going all the way to 2009?

(Test your skills on this one!  Spent years trying to ID this.)
Guess so.

I have listed this item up for auction on Ebay.  Thank you ALL for your input and suggestions.  I still feel this item has not been identified, but maybe with Ebays' exposure, it will be finalized.  Here is the link, I hope it is not in violation of Treasurenet policy to provide the link here.  Thanks again everyone!  Marc, Jeff, PBK, OK?

Derryl.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...TRK:MESELX:IT&item=320324884019

 
Who's bidding against me    

Funny you didn't post the other item your selling up on eBay. 

Funny you didn't post the other item your selling up on eBay. 

I had to see what you were talking about!  Gives new meaning to hard as a rock!

Hey musclecar you should have added this in your Ebay description, "And if anyone here on Ebay knows what the Heck this thing is please let us know!!!!"

Woohoo! I'm the high bidder as of this second!  

Daryl,

I agree with you though!! lol! I have only been looking at this for a day and it has RUINED me! lol! 

Our “what is it” item has a limiter. In other words, it can only go from 1 to 15 or from 15 to 1. Hardly a qualification for a counter. This weak aluminum item does not appear to be something built for constant usage. More of a set it and leave it alone usage.

...or in delicate occasional usage; such as in a camera.

This thing just sold on Ebay for $48.00!
OK, who bought it?

I don't know but if they put it on here and ask what it is?  There's going to be $%##$ to pay!

Daryl

Whoever bought that thang should gold plate it and hang it over their mantle ........NGE

I don't know but if they put it on here and ask what it is?  There's going to be $%##$ to pay!

Daryl         now wouldn't that be something...lol

Yeah.  Something BAD. 

But it would be funny.

Daryl

I shoulda bought the damned thing.

die die die -- is it dead yet?  chop it up into tiny bits and mail them to t net members as christmas presents